Monday 22 August 2016

Fashion means modern?.. Fashion means old!

We know that fashion has circles, and old-fashioned trends return onto the stage in a new mood, new trendy colours, and usually with a slight changes in form, though recognisable.  Stylists don't recommend to keep your old clothes because it might become fashionable again - it won't. It will be different, it will be made in new fabrics and tones, in a finer and lighter silhouette.
Alonso Sánchez Coello (1532–1588)
Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia at age 13
(1579, Museo del Prado)

It is so exciting to discover something medieval in a modern dress! Or a tricky facet dating back to the time of French Revolution...  It can be easy with the garments which are very similar to their historic prototypes, such as Roman sandals, tunics, Greek style dresses etc. I tried to find just a few hints which show that modern designers take their inspiration in the past. This is much more interesting to research!


Zac Posen 2014 Pre-Fall
I love this dress! It has extremely exciting pattern - with lots of convex lines to suit the model. Designer achieved accurate fitting due to precise drawing, not because of elastic fibres. Main thing that these two dresses  have in common - they suit the ideal figure of their time. In Holland of the 16th century opulent clothes fitted the girdle on the torso with flattened bust and belly and bell-shaped skirt, which was considered to be the perfect feminine figure.
Nowadays the ideal of beauty is different. It is just a body, loved as it is, free both from corsetry and from stereotypes...    Both dresses are made with a perfect pattern to suit the ideal silhouette in official cases - office or royal palace. A cape inserted in Zac Posen's dress reminds us about European fashion of the late 16th century, as well as accentuated shoulders and tight sleeve.

Leonardo da Vinci (attributed)
 La belle ferronnière 1497 The Louvre
Andrew Gn
Autumn 2012
In Andrew Gn's dress sleeves look partly separated from the torso, which is one of the main features of the Italian Renaissance fashion. This evening gown does not copy The 16th century patterns of course, but looking at it we can't stand thinking about that epoch. Main lines of Andrew Gn's creation - tight torso and floor-length wide and loosely moving skirt repeat the silhouette of the 15th century. This impression is strengthened by accessory on the neck of the model and neckline, which is not quite square, but has straight sides. Cross on her chest hints on lacing, which was very common for La Bella Ferronniere clothes and beads covers her neck and cross her chest in similar way.
Though modern dress is quite different, it produces strong impression of Renaissance fashion.


 Historic and modern at the same time: this is my dress for historic dance classes and theme parties. It has separated sleeves fixed with lacing and it is fitted with lacing on the sides. I made it as 'average Southern-European Renaissance', not attributed to any particular place. Not too luxurious and very practical for open-air events. It is decorated with light-blue embroidery on the sleeves and neckline. There is a white shirt underneath, with embroidery also, but on the picture it can hardly be seen.



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