Pants Balance

Do you know what balance of the pants is? This is the key concept  and the main reason why custom-made trousers suit you better than bought in the shop ones. 

Balance is normal, actually it is very good!

Every figure has its own individual waistline or the ideal level for pants to rest. Usually it is not horizontal, and not on the real waist as the narrowest point. It can be actually very different on the back, on the sides and on the front.

Each and every figure has its own pelvic tilt. Everybody who tried to draw the human body knows that men have more horizontal, and women have more tilted pelvic.

Clothes designers make all garments including pants for typical shapes, to fit the widest range of consumers. This works well for tops, sleeveless dresses, loose blouses, t-shirts etc. But not for fitted pants.

I remember I shopped for trousers last time, couple of years ago. I spent four hours in the shopping centre! Finally I found a good pair. Well, fabric was not perfect, a bit thinner than I wanted. They fit me well but I felt too tight in the hips and crotch area was too short. Since that time I have always sewn my pants myself. It takes the same time, and I get what I want at the end of the day. And I am much happier.

I'll tell you more abut the advantages of custom-made pants in the further posts, today I was going to write about balance. I've made some photos of my pants with incorrect balance - by pulling them down and pushing up  - so you can easily see what happens.


Here are my pants made of very good fabric - wool+silk fibres. They have  waistband with blue lace and ribbon. A textile flower is a finish touch for a hint of romantic style.

Incorrect balance

I pushed up back of my pants. I must say, it is not easy to do so if balance is initially correct. Back part became too short, trousers start sticking to my legs at the front and get too much room at the back. Pockets try to fly away from me and deep diagonal creases run from buttocks to side seams. I don't think it is  lovely look.  

Incorrect balance

Next I tried to push the front part up. I am not very successful here, but you can get the idea: now my pants stuck  to my calves and show diagonal folds in the opposite direction. Crotch area is too short, and this is not comfortable. Much room on the legs, pants seem too wide  for me now. And finally, pockets don't feel well too.

Incorrect balance

Then I pulled front part down. What have I got?
Deep horizontal creases (sometimes they are called "designer's smiles") and bubble around the zip.  And again, trouser leg moves backward, but softer, than on the first photo. Pockets are spreading their wings...

Incorrect balance

Finally I pulled back down. "Smiles" under the buttocks, creases running inside the pocket, deep diagonal folds because pants are doing their best to move forward and if possible, walk away. And last but not least: crotch is too long and low now, which decreases comfort of wearing trousers.

At last: balance is correct!

To resume all written above I must say: when you buy trousers, don't forget to look closely at the pockets! If their behaviour  doesn't please you, something is wrong with the balance. Creases and folds in different directions tell you the same.
Sometimes small "smiles" are fine for a new pair of tight pants. Fabric will stretch along your shape in a couple of days and they will go. But deep folds along your legs won't disappear.
But in creating custom-made trousers all the story is started with the correct and very individual balance.