Details are not the details.

The details are not the details. They make the design.  

                                                         Charles James

        

In this post I'd love to share ideas and thoughts I had working on this orange and daisy dress, which I made for my friend Inessa, beautiful lady and great singer. Russian folk with a modern twist was required according to Inessa's repertoire...

We bought fabrics in The Fabric Store (38 Wandoo Street, Fortitude Valley). We chose orange satin, silk mix, and daisy lace, polyester. We chose lace very carefully. 
                                     
                                                           How to choose lace fabric? 
                         There are few recommendations. 
                                       Lace should be:
                               -Pretty strong. You will see if threads are too thin and weak. Holes won't embellish your dress.
                               -Not clingy to your fingers when you touch it, otherwise it will lose smooth finish very soon. And won't last for long.

                               -Pleasant to touch. No sharp ends, prickly fibres, tough texture. It will irritate your skin. 
                               -Look for pulling threads and fibre edges. Your dress won't look luxurious if there are threads looking out.
                               -Don't forget about underneath fabric. Lace will look different on different underlining.

Design consists of small details...

Inessa likes stand collars...
(Vogue Sewing calls them "mandarin")...

                                    ...I like stand collars to hug the neck softly and to copy your neck's shape.

                       ...Besides I definitely like lace motifs go fluently from one pattern piece to another (from sleeve to shoulder, from shoulder to collar), though it is not always possible. I just matched daisies the best I could.

Inessa decided to sew double layered dress (it is called: with underlining), but to make sleeves in lace only...

                                     ...I decided to hide the orange edges of the armhole with hand stitches. It takes time, but brings neat and snug finish. I don't really think you can trim it with overlocker and leave as it is.

Inessa asked to make long sleeves with cuffs...


                                   ...In Haute Couture  long sleeve is usually designed in a different way that we got used to see in the shops. It is constructed with much ease  on the elbow side of the arm. When you bend your arm, the cuff will stay on its place and won't jump upward.  







Russian traditional costume
(photo was taken from http://www.rtrclub.ru/library.php, 
Russian website about costume-making.)

Looking at our  prototype, we can find out what details would form the style, produce the impression we are after.

                                        -High waist, almost under breast (besides it is really good for Inessa who is not tall)
                              -Trapeze skirt
                              -Wide long sleeves (single lace layer make us think about the underneath dress or shirt)
                              -Daisies! Daisies  produce folk impression! 

Dozens of details come to be thought over when you work on creating a unique garment for a unique person. That thoughtfulness makes the style. 


I planned to tell you something about Charles James, with whose saying I started this post. But I realised that there are two different stories, so I'll continue next week. Anyway I quote him after Nina Garcia Look Book (http://www.amazon.com.au/Nina-Garcias-Look-Book-Occasion-ebook/dp/B00JJ9GQEC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453617667&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=nina+garcia+Lookbook)